Modern electronics should be leveraged to improve your success rates on taking coyotes out of the ecosystem.
Use motion detecting cameras by placing them in areas of traffic or what you suspect may be high use areas to learn and monitor key spots where coyotes may travel.
The cameras I prefer can alert my cell phone to any movement they detect. One of the first decisions you may have to make is getting one of the following types of cameras:
A home security system camera which connects to local WIFI
Off the network trail camera
Cellular connected trail camera
Cell based cameras have their own SIM card and data pipeline separate from a cell phone. You will pay for this data to a cell provider just like your cell phone bill. Cellular trail cameras are a very solid choice because they are waterproof and have a very reliable network they tap into where WIFI is not available. Most cellular cameras are battery powered inside the case among the onboard computer but some will have the option of taking a larger external battery. These kind of cameras are usually static with one lens that points in a single direction, without the ability to rotate the lens in a different direction.
A more diverse camera has the ability to swivel around by remote control from your phone to view the immediate area around it. Getting a camera in 1080 to 2K resolution range should be clear enough image to identify coyotes and easily available to purchase online or at local stores. Any camera that can swivel 360 degrees and tilt horizontally about 120 degrees is going to cover a lot of area surrounding it. If you are alerted and have remote controls from your phone you can watch live activity.
Camera below can be remote controlled, rotates 360 degrees left and right as well as 120 degrees tilt vertically.
Getting power wired directly to a camera is going to provide less maintenance than battery powered options and charging duties that come with them. For battery powered cameras, if you have adequate sunlight and a good place to mount a small solar panel then any sort of solar recharging option is going to benefit you. Take a look at power options and how long any battery is supposed to last according to manufacturers. I find those manufacturer estimates to be exaggerated.
For WIFI cameras the quality of the network connection at the distance between the camera and the network router is going to be important to pay attention to. This factor could dictate whether or not this is a viable option. In today's market there are many IP6 waterproof WIFI home security cameras at less than 100 dollars which I would consider.
Most cameras use at least one PIR sensor (Passive Infrared Sensor) to detect heat, then the local computer will initiate filming activity and even send alerts to your phone if that feature is available on it. I found that the sensors work better when the objects are passing from one side to the other as opposed to straight at or away from the camera. This is well known in the industry and you should apply that knowledge when placing your camera in the field. You should also take that into consideration when you read product reviews. There will be a lot of complaints about them not operating properly unless something is 5-10 feet away. Position and proximity of the lens and sensor to a target are very important. At this point in time, it's what we have available to us on a large scale. Your expectations may exceed what is available and affordable on the market.
Place your cameras in an elevated position off the ground with these items in mind:
Avoiding splatter and mud from raindrops hitting the ground around the camera. They can obstruct and impair sensors or the camera lens
Prevent animals becoming curious and then damaging the camera.
Get a better view of the surrounding area.
If possible, point the camera at a 90 degree angle and within 10 yards of where you expect the animals to travel.
Other items you may want to consider are going to be:
Driveway style motion detectors.
IR lights external to your rifle and mounted in an elevated position. These help to shine a beam in the shooting area at angles you cannot achieve from your shooting position.
Use all of these tools to track activity and get an idea on any patterns that can develop or to filter out animals you are not interested in.
Unless you have an "iron sights" setup on your airgun or powder burning rifle then you are probably going to want some sort of optics to dispatch your coyote. The distance you intend to shoot at may help decide what kind of magnification you might want to use. I usually prefer something which has a magnification level starting between 2-4x and which can move up to 12-16x. Everyone will have an opinion on their desired magnification levels but I like models that have a very low power option so that I can scan a wide area to track a coyote and then dial up for the shot.
Image from Sightmark Wraith 4K Mini
One of the first decisions you will be confronted with is to use three types of scopes:
Thermal
Night Vision
Traditional Daytime Glass Optics Scope
All thermal and night vision scopes I have ever seen can be used in either day or night condition and present an image on a small computer screen to the eye piece. You will usually pay more for increased magnification levels and image resolution. There are even products that you can attach to your scope and provide night vision for example but I am not going get into them here.
Night vision scopes always come with an IR (infrared) light to cast down range and illuminate a target. This light may be an external device in flashlight form or even built into the scope. Typically that is a 850nm rated beam of light and is what most security cameras can pick up from their night vision lenses. You will also see people discuss using 940nm rated lights and use them because they believe the animal has less of a chance at detecting the source. The 940nm lights are supposed to cast their light at a more limited distance but be completely invisible to humans at the source and are often used by military or law enforcement. Keep in mind we are talking about coyotes not humans and I have not been able to ask any coyotes if they can see one light beam easier than another. If I was to guess, it would be that they could (or even cannot) see either one equally.
If you want to learn more about the differences between 850nm and 940nm lights you can begin with understanding what is termed the "Visible Spectrum" where it is stated "A typical human eye will respond to wavelengths from about 380 to about 750 nanometers." Before you buy an after market 940nm light make sure it works the way you expect with your scope. I don't recommend them because the 850nm lights I have received with my scopes has always been adequate.
Back to night vision scopes. These scopes will have a day mode which is usually full color and a night mode which will be in black and white. When in night mode you can still shoot during the day without the IR light and during dawn or dusk when light conditions are limited. In night mode you will also be able to pick up light down range from security cameras or other light sources. If having a laser rangefinder is important you will want to look at products on the market that can provide this feature.
Thermal optics are going to come with a heavy price tag but there are some great options on the market today. Usually these optics present a 2 tone and/or even a multi-colored image. Better resolution and faster refresh rates make for a superior experience and costs more money. I really like the thermal optics but you'll have to do your own research to see what you can afford versus what you need. Aside from scopes on the rifle, it can be handy to have a thermal monocular in your toolbox. My conclusion after using a handheld thermal was that I found it much easier than getting behind and panning left and right with a rifle, including the baggage of it's accessories upon a bipod or tripod. Thermal monoculars can be used to locate critters hiding behind bushes or even the body of a coyote you just eradicated.
Here are some ideas for optics you might consider on your coyote:
Athlon Ares line of scopes
Vortex Viper line of scopes
Element Optics scopes
Sightmark Wraith and Wraith Mini day/night vision scopes
The 2 main features I look for in a bipod is the ability to pan left and right on a swivel point and that the legs adjust in length
When using a heavier rifle I would be looking to get a bipod where the legs are several inches apart at the swivel point. This distance should provide a more stable rest and prevent it from tipping over accidentally.
Avoid getting knock-off mimics of popular brands such as Atlas or Accu-tac. I have seen people buy them and later complain about how unstable they are. Don't waste your time and money. Since I already have a lot of experience with those two brands I can say they are solid.
For tripods I go with the Primos Trigger Sticks almost all the time. It's affordable, stable and versatile. It does not require any mate to a rail on the rifle because you just lay it on top of the v-shaped rest where it rotates 360 degrees. You can raise and lower this product from sitting to standing positions in seconds. I have been using them for years.
If you are going to setup in a position for long periods of time and prefer to use a tripod then I would recommend looking at the Field Optics Research models or something of similar quality.
Choosing good ammunition to dispatch a coyote is important. For air rifles, generally speaking there are 2 types of projectiles you will see most most often, slugs and pellets. Any of these types of ammunition can work on coyotes if you dial in the adequate power levels. Let's take a look at some products out there.
Below are FX Airgun pellets in .35 caliber. You can see they have a dome shape on the front and a skirt near the rear with a hollowed out back end end where the pellet probe can fit. This skirt assists to stabilize the projectile in flight. The skirt also creates a fair bit of drag on the projectiles and causes them to lose their energy at a faster rate than slugs.
Below are two types of slugs. On the right are JSB Knockouts in .25 caliber and the left is Air Velocity Sport aka AVS in .35 caliber. Both of these feature a hollow point to assist with expansion upon impact and a flat base.
Below are JSB Hades Pellets in .22 with their radioactive sort of symbol baked into the head. They are quite popular among air gun enthusiasts.
These polymer tipped pellets below are Predator Polymags. The red tip helps with expansion upon impact.
On some airguns when you switch ammunition between slugs and pellets you would be best off also changing a "pellet probe" which pushes the ammunition from the magazine or single shot tray into the barrel. If you view the slugs in the image above, the flat base design is a big departure from the pellets and this can be problematic. Changing the probes will assist in pushing the projectile straight and avoid turning it sideways and smashing up into a ball while it attempts to enter the barrel. In a worst case scenario, slugs can get stuck between the magazine and the start of the barrel resulting in a very difficult to remove magazine. In addition to changing pellet probes, some airguns may even need a change to the magazine or magazine components to compensate for the ammunition differences. Some of the older FX magazines had issues cycling slugs and there are people still selling after-market feeder trays to solve this matter. It's a good idea to follow the industry by monitoring forums dedicated to airguns and getting ahead of issues like this.
Some barrels shoot pellets better and some are specifically designed for slugs. Several barrels of the same caliber can have slightly different diameter, different twist rates or even have a choke which constricts the ammo as it travels down the barrel in order to improve accuracy. All of these factors will impact accuracy upon various types of ammunition. You can usually find more information on barrels from the manufacturer or dealer to get an idea what might be most accurate in your setup.
Since there are so many different barrels, the ammunition for airguns is all over the place when it comes to sizes (length, diameter, ogive). There isn't an industry standard when it comes to ammo and the varying lengths can result in some ammunition not fitting into magazines. Predator Polymags are notorious for this problem and they even produce a "short" version because of it. If you have an issue feeding the ammo into the barrel try using a single shot tray to see if it helps. If you have the option then change the pellet probe for your airgun when appropriate.
The main things I would like to emphasize is know how much your ammunition and airgun combination are delivering down range. You can use chronographs and ballistic applications for your smart phone like Mero, Chairgun or something similar to make these calculations on a table for you. The ballistics apps usually display energy levels at varying distances, the expected drop in trajectory and more information that may be interesting to any shooter. Use these tools and make informed decisions.
Below is a screen shot from the Mero app on Android which displays the loss of energy at range using Predator Polymags in 25 caliber. I selected a 15 yard zero, muzzle velocity of 890 fps and target at 90 yards. I am not suggesting this power level but instead displaying content from ballistics applications for informational purposes.
The table below displays the points of impact at varying distances.
Whatever you choose make sure it is accurate and delivers appropriate energy down range. It's not a mystery why many people prefer the slugs as they retain energy better and tend to be heavier. As I have mentioned in A Guide To Controlling Coyote in Urban Environments, I have had great success using 70 ft lbs of energy at the muzzle with 38.5 grain slugs and targeting the coyote within 40 yards.
When selecting an airgun to shoot coyotes make sure you get one that can deliver the power levels you need to make an instant kill. I recommend taking a look at Air Guns, Silencers, Calibers, Ammunition and Power Levels for a primer on this subject. Many manufacturers will publish power levels that you should be able to achieve in the specifications on each model at their website. I'd say these estimates are usually exaggerated. Do your research and leverage online forums to get an opinion from others if you can't get your hands on and shoot a particular model. I like to use Airgun Nation forum. After power levels make sure you get one with the features and characteristics that are important for you. This is a personal choice. There isn't "the best" necessarily.
Many people will consider choosing between single shot, automatic or semi-automatic airgun. Typically all you will get is one opportunity at a particular coyote in a day. If you happen to be in an incredibly target rich environment of coyotes then you might well want more than a single shot repeater. I can just imagine someone has three coyotes at their back fence and a Western Airguns Rattler loaded up and ready to smoke them all.
Another hot topic for some people is choosing between bullpups and your classic style of rifle. You might even ask what is a bullpup? Wikipedia has a good article on this topic and the first paragraph here has a good description of what a bullpup is. I have one bullpup rifle and it seems more suited to shoot from the shoulder as you walk around because the weight is toward the rear of the rifle. My FX Impact M3 airgun is a bullpup and is just fine shooting off the bipod and bench as well as the shoulder. What I have noticed from the bench is that I have to lift my head up a littler higher than normal to see through the scope. I don't get the best cheek-weld to the stock. It has not had a negative impact to my shooting but is a little bit odd for me when I switch between rifles. The bullpup models compact a lot of barrel length into a shorter package. To me, this is another personal choice rather than one being absolutely better than another.
After market parts, modularization and customization may be important to you. Most big airgun dealers will offer a vast array of after market parts and accessories for different brands and models of airguns. If this is an important area to you then I'd recommend browsing some local or online shops to see what is currently available for what you have in mind. There will undoubtedly be parts and accessories on eBay as well because people are 3d printing magazine holders, scope gadgets/knobs, barrel clamps, etc. I have even found parts and accessories that can be 3d printed from files at Thingiverse.com
Since most people don't normally take more than a couple shots a day with their airgun at coyotes I don't feel it's important to make emphasis on shot count when recommending air rifles. Just know that the bigger tank on a pre-charged pneumatic airgun will often equate to more shot count before you need to refill. This isn't always the case and will depend on how much air is utilized in each shot. You can tune most modern pcp airguns for either high shot count or more power. Therefore I recommend you get an airgun which allows you to tune up or down with hammer spring tension and/or regulator pressure changes. Some high end models offer electronic tuning and that is a treat. If tuning an airgun seems like a daunting task then I recommend starting with this video below to learn more about what I am describing. This topic can be intimidating for beginners and done differently between airgun models. The owner of this YouTube channel has produced many guides to tuning different rifles. He knows what he is doing so check out his channel and see if you can learn from the material he has put out there for the community.
I am going to make some recommendations on airguns below broken into three price categories. This is not an exhaustive list on what I would consider you look at but I hope it points you in the right direction. Since I am not going to include calibers, let's just say I'd recommend beginning at 25 caliber and moving up from there on any particular model.
High priced airguns- above $1200
FX Impact
BRK Ghost
Airgun Technology Uragan
Daystate Redwolf
Daystate Alphawolf
American Air Arms Evol
KalibrGun Kricket 2
Western Airguns Rattler
RTI Arms Prophet
Mid priced - between $650-$1199
Airforce Condor SS
Benjamin Bulldog
Hatsan Blitz
Airforce Texan
Low priced - less than $650
Benjamin Marauder
Umarex Gauntlet 2
Umarex Origin
Air Venturi Avenger, Avenge-X , etc
Here is a compilation video demonstrating several coyotes taken with an airgun.
When taking headshots at coyote make sure you deliver your presents with accuracy.
Below I have 2 colors overlayed upon an image of a coyote's head. You can see the unaltered image above.
The red "Primary Kill Zone" is where I would recommend placing a frontal or side shot into the skull. If you venture too high from the line between the eyes, eventually the projectile may skip off the skull like a rock skipping on the surface of water (video displaying impact point too high on skull here). My primary kill zone is probably a lot more strict than what most people would draw.
Included is the orange "Additional Kill Zone" which is a good addition for when you might be shooting from an elevated position. To be clear, when I am aiming from a tree stand or other elevated position I will include the red and the orange areas when looking to make the kill shot.
This video demonstrates a good shot placement to the back of the skull.
This video demonstrates a side shot into the skull. I'd say it was a tad low but it hit the instant off switch.
This video demonstrates the perfect shot between the eyes.
This video is another frontal shot but a tad high. You can see that the energy dump was very effective.
On each of these animals the projectile dumped all its energy into the skull and did not exit the body. This full energy dump is what you want to see. Distances to targets was between 15-25 yards.
Equipment in all videos:
FX Impact M3 in .25 caliber air rifle with 700mm slug barrel
Nielsen Specialty Ammo slugs 38.5 grains at 910 feet per second at the muzzle
This guide is intended to provide people in urban environments with information to help them effectively control coyote populations using air rifles.
This is not an encyclopedic volume which exhausts every detail on the topic. It is a guide. There are many ways to accomplish different aspects of hunting and pest control. This is not intended to provide advice for every situation you may encounter.
From here on out I will use the terms "air rifle" or "airgun". You can decide if you would substitute those terms with air pistol or whatever else you want. For the most part, I would prefer to emphasize power levels from an air rifle at a given target's distance more than the nomenclature of the device.
Image of Canis Latrans aka Coyote below
Why do we need to control the population of coyotes?
Let's face it, coyotes can be undesirable pests. Most people seem ok with wild animals until their cat or dog is attacked or even killed by one.
Coyotes have been known to attack humans, kill and consume pets such as cats and dogs or even other more desirable animals in nature. Coyotes are also known to carry rabies which can be deadly to humans and other animals.
Coyotes do not have many effective natural predators and if their numbers are not kept in check then the balance in the ecosystem will be upset.
Thoughts on using an Air Rifle
Cooking off firearms isn't what most people will want to do when thinking about controlling coyote numbers in urban environments.
Air rifles can be relatively quiet and are capable of immediate dispatch of the largest coyote within a fraction of a second. They can also be used on other pests in the yard, garden or property. The fact that you can tune modern pre-charged airgun power levels and have a wide variety of ammunition available on the market makes them a solid choice.
Video below demonstrates the capability of airguns on coyote.
When it comes to removing the coyotes from an urban situation you are probably going to consider trapping versus an airgun at some point. I am not a good trapper but do have some experience and if you prefer that method then you can stick to it. I am not trying to convince anyone that trapping is more or less effective. Trapping is simply out of the scope of this guide. When you trap the coyote, unless you intend to relocate it then you will need to dispatch it with something (a rock a club or even an airgun). Maybe dispatching is done at a location other than where it is caught, but even then an air rifle is an effective method to finish the job.
I know other methods are quiet and effective such as archery or blowguns but there is already a lot of information on archery that I don't intend to duplicate. I'll let you research other methods.
Whatever you choose for an air rifle see the section later in this guide where I focus on air guns, silencers, power levels and ammunition in further detail.
Matters of Safety, Noise, Location and Being Responsible
Wherever and however you decide to dispatch coyotes always keep safety as a number one priority. You don't want to damage property, hurt yourself, another person or an animal that you don't intend to target.
When using firearms, airguns, archery equipment, etc. make sure you know what is behind and beyond your target.
Choose a safe location that has coyotes and where you see them regularly (on camera or in person). You can lure them away from trails they like to travel upon with bait, calls, etc. but if there are not that many in a given spot then it may not be a productive location. Make sure you select a location that permits legally dispatching coyotes using your air rifle.
If you are in an urban environment at some point it may be important to be mindful of neighbors by keeping noise to a minimum. Consider using silencers and reducing power levels on air rifles to ease the shot noise (more on this later).
Try to be responsible when it comes to your activities. This includes where you dispose of carcasses because it will eventually become very stinky and attract flies/maggots. Some people just don't want dead carcasses in or near their property. Before you take your first shot, think about what you plan on doing with the body after you have taken the animal.
When interacting with other people on the subject of coyote control try to do so in a way that convinces them you are doing a clean, thorough, safe job. We have enough anti-hunting movements and ignorant people behind their related organizations. Let's not make more adversaries but instead convince more people that hunting and pest control is appropriate and important.
The Shooting Position & Remaining Undetected
To improve your chance for success consider your shooting position and how you use it to get the mission completed. If you can conceal yourself and prevent the coyote from detecting your movement at the moment you prepare your shot, it will make you more effective.
If at all possible, consider using a ground blind, tree stand, wall or other concealment to shoot from or behind. When it comes to the necessary movement you make leading up to the shot, always move slowly and deliberately. Sometimes slow movement may be just enough to prevent them from seeing you or prevent them from getting spooked and ultimately ruining your opportunity. I have been spotted many times while moving slowly or just remaining still and got my coyote moments later. I suspect that sometimes they are not certain what they are looking at and what threat it presents.
It is important you make your shooting position as comfortable as possible so that you do not feel compelled to move around. You don't want to alert coyotes to your presence. Take it upon yourself to think ahead and also take learning experiences and apply changes based upon them.
When it comes to concealment I would also consider shooting from what is called the prone position (laying on the ground with your stomach down) unless you already have a blind or tree stand that does a fantastic job. This position shrinks your overall silhouette. Always think about your silhouette. Is there light behind or around you which is exposing your position? Sit with a tree or bush behind you if you don't use a blind.
For most people, it's obvious that you should be very quiet when trying to take coyote. They can hear when you cock a rifle, bump against the side of the blind or fiddle with your gear. If you have wind, rain, a loud truck, sirens or even an airplane flying above then consider timing and take advantage of it as a distraction when you need to mask any noise or even movement you might make.
Coyotes have a great sense of smell. If you want to improve your chances for success then don't lather yourself up in Kentucky Fried Chicken grease and expect to go undetected near them. I'm not going to say a lot on this subject other than don't expose yourself any more than you have to. I have seen several older coyotes locate bait hidden in a large mass of bushes and tall grass very quickly. That should give you some idea on how well they can pinpoint a smell. If coyotes think there is a threat they will use their nose to find it and you will miss out on opportunities if you overlook it. These animals will often try to get downwind of any potential threat and if they don't like what they smell, they'll be gone quickly.
Bipods, Tripods, Shooting Bags, etc.
Consider support for making the most effective shot. Coyotes seem to be very busy animals at times and will pace about, look around, and even seem restless. Whatever you choose, think it through and make sure you are confident that it will get the job done when the coyote steps out in front of you.
Shooting off-hand is possible and I am not going to say don't do it, but it is not going to provide a foundation for the most accurate shot placement. I like to use bipods and prefer to shoot from the ground in the prone position. My favorite bipod has a swivel on it for when coyotes are within 40 yards or even just covering a lot of horizontal movement in my shooting lane. This allows me to rotate the rifle smoothly and permits me to quickly stop or start my movements, ultimately resulting in quicker target acquisition.
I have never used a tripod on a coyote but I would not look beyond that option. I recommend one that permits you to swivel the rifle around like mentioned earlier with bipods. Shooting sticks can be handy and I would like to recommend the Primos Trigger Stick in tripod form because I have used it extensively. It is quick to deploy, compacts to a small form, lightweight for a tripod platform, allows rotation of the rifle and is affordable when compared to other tripods.
There is a brief video on the page Bipods & Tripods for Coyote Hunting where I dive a littler further into details of what features I look for in these type of rests.
If you are in a tree stand and the above options are not practical then consider bracing against the tree trunk or branch, forming a rest with your arms off your body/lap or anything else to stabilize the rifle. The key details to focus on are being comfortable and remaining still while you shoot.
Using electronics such as Motion Detecting Cameras, IR lighting, Game Cameras, etc.
The behavior patterns of local coyotes should be one of the most important factors when choosing a spot to stake out your hunt. You can often zero in on the best location or areas of highest activity by monitoring movement using cameras and motion detectors. Otherwise, you can rely on local knowledge.
If you are beginning in a new location take a guess and move your equipment around periodically until you are confident in one area. You should be looking for any sign such as footprints, fur, scat, dead carcasses, game trails and even intersections in them, fence lines behind homes or any area that may be regularly patrolled as examples. Always consider obvious areas of interest like chicken coops, free food locations (natural or not) such as someone's dog or cat bowl, or anywhere they may be lured by an easy meal. I have seen coyotes eat from wild blackberry bushes to neighborhood trash cans.
I like to use a combination of motion-detecting cameras and motion detectors to help alert me to activity. The cameras I use take video or photos when something passes in front of it and alert my cell phone. I also use motion detectors which only create audible alerts from a speaker when something moves in front of them. When I receive any alert I view the images or live feed from the camera to confirm it is or isn't a coyote. In case it isn't obvious, if you are in a tree stand or blind outdoors then I do not recommend audible motion detectors with the speaker as the alarm will alert the coyote.
When it comes to getting the coyote in the sights at night you will probably be using either a thermal scope or night vision scope with IR lighting to present the animal for you. More on scopes in detail later, but if you are using a scope that utilizes IR light then it often is sold & packaged with that light. These are typically good enough to get the job done. The problem I have found if shooting from inside a building, behind a wall, fence, blind or something similar is that the flashlight beam can bounce off the surrounding walls or structure and back into the scope. This typically happens when I move the scope close to the edge of the structure resulting in a blinding and washed-out image. At some point I started using an IR light source external to my rifle but I dealt with this issue for some time and even lost opportunities because of it. When using a remote IR light it will usually be best to mount it in an elevated position so that it covers the shooting area. Another less desirable option I found was to lay the light on the ground in a static position where it is not reflecting any light back into a scope. This compromise doesn't provide the benefits of an elevated position where you can see better beyond/behind a bush for example.
I prefer to use pre-charged airguns that shoot a minimum of 70 ft lbs of energy at the muzzle. I also prefer to take my shots within 40 yards to retain energy at a distance. Lessons learned by experience using power levels between 50-70 ft lbs over time have led me to this conclusion. There were times when I didn't make as precise a shot as I intended because the animal moved while I was pulling the trigger. When attempting head shots at 70 ft lbs the result was still a dead coyote, even if they moved slightly and I did not hit the head at all. Sometimes I hit the neck/spine and it died instantly and others it hit enough vitals to drop and kill the animal in seconds. Some people will claim and even demonstrate they can achieve kill shots with much lower power levels. That's ok with me. If someone wants to create their guide while recommending a less powerful setup then I will consider their information. The most important thing is to understand and consider the power levels of your airgun.
Video below of coyote hit in the neck and expiring instantly. That 70 ft lbs of energy came in handy.
When I started shooting airguns I quickly learned that every one of them could be much different in noise level than another model. Usually when you move up in power and calibers the noisier they are. People will use silencers on their air rifles to tame the noise. It's up to you to decide if this is even important. Just take note of how loud your setup is and if it affects your neighbors. There are after-market silencers that can negatively impact accuracy. Hopefully, you discover that problem before you try and shoot your first coyote with one. Tuning the airgun down in power can also help tame the noise and often provide more shots per tank. Also, most airguns that feature a shrouded barrel will have some deadening of noise as well. Look for that in addition to a silencer if noise is an important issue for you. Finally, some airguns are just loud no matter what silencer or tune you try...
To me, calibers seem a little bit less important than power levels. As of this writing, I have yet to see a .177 that can do 70 ft lbs from the manufacturer. I would guess that someone can theoretically supercharge/customize their .177 to levels I don't usually see so I am not focused like a laser on calibers. If you don't know much about airguns and power levels I can say that almost any airgun I have seen which is 30 caliber and above would be adequate for shooting coyotes. I am talking here about pre-charged airguns but there are likely other types of airguns that are powerful enough to take down a coyote.
If you don't know how much power your airgun is producing then get a chronograph and shoot your airgun with the desired ammunition. Record the numbers and use something like Airgun Calculator to see where your setup stands at the muzzle. Know that the further away from the muzzle the less energy your projectile has. This will be a factor if you start shooting at distance. Keep in mind that pellets generally lose energy at a much faster rate than slugs. This is due to their shape with the skirt on the back which creates drag as it moves through the air. See my page Airgun Pellets and Slugs for Coyote Hunting for more details on smart phone apps, ballistics and a look at different ammunition.
There is a huge variety of projectiles/ammunition which can kill a coyote from an airgun. Choose ammo that is accurate first. If you cannot hit anything then you don't stand much of a chance. When it comes to accuracy some ammo just doesn't perform well in a given airgun. Experiment with different options and see what is best for you. I like to use heavy ammunition because it is like throwing a big rock. When I was a young boy I learned that throwing big rocks tends to hurt more than tiny pebbles. I prefer using polymer-tipped pellets and hollow point slugs on coyote. A lot of people like ammunition such as JSB Hades because it expands under the right conditions. Know what your ammo is capable of upon impact. If you can dump all the energy inside the animal it is the best option. I found that accurate head shots using 38.5 grain slugs moving 910 feet per second out of my 25 caliber airgun at close range will dump every bit of energy into the brain nearly every time. The more you examine your results in the field and experiment with power levels the more knowledge you can apply to your choices of ammunition.
Please see Airguns for Coyote Hunting for some specific recommendations and further details on this subject.
Optics: Scopes, Traditional, Thermal, IR Night Vision
What scope you use is entirely up to you. Given that scope technology is constantly evolving, after some time if I gave information and details about every scope and its features it would be soon outdated.
If you are never going to shoot at night, you still may want to look at thermal or night vision options. Every thermal or night vision scope I have seen is capable of making shots in day or night conditions. Electronic scopes usually come with a way to record your activities as well. You may not intend to create fun videos to share but there are some things to take away from them even if that is not your goal. Over time I have become more effective by using electronic scopes. This is because of the simple fact that I can replay any encounter on my computer again and learn from any mistakes. Example problems are:
I can see if my scope is out of zero alignment
I can tell if my aim was bad
I can determine that my range estimation to target was a problem
Anything else unexpected that happened
I wouldn't dismiss electronic scopes and their usefulness. You could also use a GoPro camera to film your shooting experience and replay as well. I am not going to dive into that topic in this guide but YouTube has videos of how to set this up and what is required.
I don't use thermal for coyote hunting because of the cost involved. Otherwise, I would be looking for scopes with a fast refresh rate (that's how fast it updates the image) and with a good amount of clarity to the image (this is usually derived from better resolution and decent glass). If you can afford thermal, why not consider it?
Night vision scopes that utilize IR light to see down range are my choice because they are affordable. I also like them because each one I have seen has a day mode which is in color as well.
Scopes come with different magnification capabilities and that costs more when going up on electronic scopes. Just remember that the more you turn up the magnification level on a scope the more tunnel vision you get. I like something about 4-16 power and scan on low power and then turn up magnification for the shot. It's as simple as that for me. I am intentionally not diving into the IR lights too much. They usually work well enough but some brands and models do seem to provide more crisp and clear images than others.
If you can afford a thermal monocular in addition to your scope of choice then it may be worth adding to your toolkit.
To be confident in my shot placement I always verify or reconduct zero when the following conditions are met. This list could get really long but here are a few ideas and you may have your list:
Changing to new ammunition
The airgun or scope is dropped or bumped real bad
The airgun has been tuned or altered to change power levels
The airgun was zeroed at a given range that is far different than what you intend to shoot in the field
There is a large temperature change between when you zeroed and when you are in the field (Point of impact on airguns can be off by a significant amount in this situation and especially the first shot or two)
The airgun was partially or fully disassembled, including barrel changes or pellet probe changes
Right before I hunt
If I am going to hunt a spot where I know the distances to where I expect the coyote then I will zero at that range. It's a good idea to know the point of impact of your projectiles at various ranges. Take note of these or even memorize them. If your shot is going to be 1 inch high or low that can be a big deal depending on the situation.
You can find a lot of examples searching on Google for coyote vitals using a simple search like "coyote vitals image". Each one I have seen is providing body shot vitals. I don't want to discuss those because their information and availability is exhaustive already. If you want to take a body shot that is your choice. I do take that option sometimes and it can be very effective. If you can make that precise heart shot, they go down faster than a lung shot.
When taking head shots between the eyes my experience has been that if your aim is just a bit too high then sometimes the projectile will deflect off the skull (see example video of too high on headshot at page linked directly above). Look out for this problem and adjust accordingly.
Coyote Behavior, Bait , Calling & Tactics
Using bait to bring in or distract coyotes is very effective. There could be regulations in your area that forbid using bait so get informed and try to remain within the constraints of any laws.
Some ideas on bait I use often are squirrels, rats, birds, fish that you catch and even leftover chicken bones from a recent meal. Just remember they are scavengers and will take an easy meal. You can experiment and get creative on bait.
I like to lay bait right in the middle of or next to a game trail or high-use area. Once animals in your area get used to picking up a free meal they will return to the area for more. This could be days or weeks later. If they keep picking up free meals in an area it will be embedded into their brains as a location to patrol.
One of the best tactics I use is to place 2 small baits at least 15 feet away from each other. The coyotes will typically pick up one of them and take it out of the immediate area to feed in solitude and peace. This is not absolute behavior but is quite common. Don't be too disturbed that you may have missed an opportunity when you see this behavior.
While they devour the free food, it is a great time to prepare for their return on the second bait by loading ammo, begin filming or even adjusting your scope if need be. If you lay multiple baits all in a pile or near each other they will often pick them all up or as many as they can in one go and leave. At that point you may not get a shot if they leave for the day.
I have timed how long it takes a coyote to feed on a rabbit carcass for example and it took about 12 minutes. Be patient as they may not return immediately. Over time I noticed that if they think there might be more food present, they will rummage around in bushes looking for more. Sometimes for up to 5 minutes or so. This is when you will most likely get a good opportunity to make it all come together.
Another option a friend has suggested is to place the bait under a log or something similar to make the animal work and remain distracted. This would be a good time to take a shot as they dig up the bait.
Calling coyotes is a well-known and effective tactic. You can use electronic or mouth calls as you see fit. There is a vast amount of information on this topic and I have not done this in an urban environment but out in the desert. Just be prepared for some wild and fast-paced encounters at times because I have seen them run in at full speed coming into calls. It does not take a lot of skill to operate mouth calls but using them exposes your position and you can easily get busted. Think about using electronic calls located away from yourself if you have that option.
In conclusion, I hope that you found some of this information useful and that it may help improve your chances to take out these pests.
